rikibeth: (Bandanagirl - Vampire Red)
rikibeth ([personal profile] rikibeth) wrote2010-12-05 11:29 pm
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Best. Latkes. Ever.

Out of all the eight nights of Hanukkah, there were only two this year when all three of us would be in the house: last Thursday, and tonight. I didn't have the energy on Thursday, so I made our annual latke feast tonight.

For three people, I used five pounds of russet potatoes, two smallish onions, two eggs, and enough salt. No flour, no matzo meal, no baking powder; flour and matzo meal make the latkes heavy, and trying to lighten them with baking powder makes them bitter. These are latkes as the Flying Spaghetti Monster intended -- pure potato goodness.

Here is what you do: you peel the potatoes. You can do this ahead of time; just leave the peeled potatoes in a bowl of cold water, so they don't discolor.

When you're ready to grate them, also peel the onions. You can grate them by hand on a box grater (watch out for your knuckles) or a wire safety grater -- the safety grater gives the best texture, but it takes kind of a long time and leaves your arm sore. I do as my father the engineer did, and use a food processor. First put everything through on the grating disk, and then pulverize the shreds with the chopping blade. You'll want to get the onion into the mix pretty early, because onions are full of antioxidants and keep the potatoes from turning funny colors. You'll want a mixing bowl to hold the shreds, and another to hold the puree, unless you've got a commercial-capacity RobotCoupe or something -- five pounds is too much for the workbowl of your average household processor, so you'll need to work in batches.

When all you have is a bowl of puree, dump it into a colander that you've lined with a kitchen towel. NOT paper towels, they'll disintegrate. NOT terrycloth, the puree will stick to the nap. Linen tea towel, or flour sack towel, or one of those gauze not-prefolded "diapers" that people only ever use as burp cloths, or scrap muslin, or several layers of cheesecloth if that's the best you can do. Gather up the cloth around the puree. Wring out EVERY LAST BIT OF LIQUID YOU CAN MANAGE. This is the secret, right here. If you get the potato mixture nice and dry, you don't need flour or matzo meal to absorb the moisture, and they will fry up crisp and delicious.

Sprinkle generously with kosher salt, and mix in two eggs. I know of no better method than squishing them in with your hands. The sink's right there.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet until shimmering. (A griddle doesn't hold the depth of oil you need.) Drop in spoonfuls of the mixture. Flatten them out nicely. When they're browned around the edges, flip them over and cook the other side.

Remove to a baking sheet lined with a brown paper grocery bag. Eat them as soon as they're cool enough to pick up. Latke night does not require plates. It requires everyone hanging around in the kitchen and eating them as you fry them. The cook, too.

I did put the last two latkes of mine onto a small plate so I could enjoy them with a spoonful of sour cream. But it's not necessary. Some people like applesauce. I don't.

Nothing else is served for dinner on latke night. Nutrition be damned. We've got a miracle to celebrate here.
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[identity profile] kittenmommy.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:36 am (UTC)(link)

Take a potato, pat pat pat
Roll it and make it flat flat flat
Fry in a pan with fat fat fat
Hanukkah latkes, clap clap clap!


Yeah, I learned that song in kindergarten...? First grade? IDEK. Nearly 40 years later, and I still remember it.

Because my goodness, LATKES DO WANT! :D

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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:43 am (UTC)(link)
I never learned anything but OH NO IF I HAVE TO HEAR THAT DREIDEL SONG ONE MORE TIME IMMA CUT A BITCH. And some attempt in Hebrew school to teach us Ma'oz Tzur/Rock of Ages, but that was deathly dull and never took.

I'm your typical quasi-pagan atheist Jew; we light the candles but I don't say the brachas any more, and I do make latkes. Because they are delicious.
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[identity profile] kittenmommy.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:49 am (UTC)(link)

I never learned anything but OH NO IF I HAVE TO HEAR THAT DREIDEL SONG ONE MORE TIME IMMA CUT A BITCH.

I never learned that one, but I actually do know all the words to "Hava Nagila" because we learned it in third grade music class. That really surprised our friend when we were at his daughter's bat mitzvah and I was able to sing all of the words! Can't believe I still remember them; my head is packed with all kinds of crazy trivia!

And some attempt in Hebrew school to teach us Ma'oz Tzur/Rock of Ages, but that was deathly dull and never took.

LOL!

I'm your typical quasi-pagan atheist Jew; we light the candles but I don't say the brachas any more, and I do make latkes. Because they are delicious.

It's funny, because I know lots more Jewish people who celebrate holidays in a secular way than I know Christians who do the same. Hmm.




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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:55 am (UTC)(link)
A whole LOT of gentiles learned the words to "Hava Nagila" by way of Harry Belafonte, as it turns out.

And there's a long, long tradition of atheist Jews who still maintain family and cultural ties. The menorah I light? My great-great-grandparents brought it with them when they came to this country from Russia in 1888. I'm not going to give up lighting it just because of a little detail like not believing in God. Some things are important.
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[identity profile] kittenmommy.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 11:06 am (UTC)(link)

A whole LOT of gentiles learned the words to "Hava Nagila" by way of Harry Belafonte, as it turns out.

LOL! We learned it in third grade music class, along with another one that went something like,

Hanukkah, oh Hanukkah come light the menorah
Let's have a party, we'll all dance the hora
[Something I don't remember] and latkes and good things to eat
Gather 'round the table, we'll give you a treat


There's more, but I've forgotten the rest.

And there's a long, long tradition of atheist Jews who still maintain family and cultural ties. The menorah I light? My great-great-grandparents brought it with them when they came to this country from Russia in 1888. I'm not going to give up lighting it just because of a little detail like not believing in God. Some things are important.

Oh yeah, I totally get it.

I think there are lots of secular/atheist "Christians" who do the same kind of thing, putting up Christmas trees and having Easter egg hunts for the kids without actually believing any of it or imbuing it with any deeper meaning.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 01:17 pm (UTC)(link)
Ack, they tried to teach us that other one too. The missing line is "Dreidels to play with." I don't remember the rest of it, or even the chorus, and not remembering the chorus makes it pretty much impossible to develop a tradition of singing it. Hanukkah is just Not A Singing Holiday. :-P
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[identity profile] kittenmommy.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 06:32 pm (UTC)(link)

I actually thought it was "Dreidels and latkes and good things to eat", but I know that driedels aren't good to eat and so I though I must've been confused, because one of those things was not like the others. LOL

Hanukkah is just Not A Singing Holiday. :-P

Yeah, I guess not! :D

[identity profile] greeneyes-rpi.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 06:34 pm (UTC)(link)
I was taught the line was "spinning tops to play with and latkes to eat." It parses better, anyway.

And, because you must also have the brain worm, the bridge is:

And while we are playing, the candles are burning low
One for each night, they shed a sweet light to remind us of days long ago
One for each night, they shed a sweet light to remind us of days long ago.

:)

[identity profile] greeneyes-rpi.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 06:30 pm (UTC)(link)
OH NO IF I HAVE TO HEAR THAT DREIDEL SONG ONE MORE TIME IMMA CUT A BITCH


Truer words were never spoken...er....written.

[identity profile] tanyahp.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:38 am (UTC)(link)
Love it! I am an applesauce girl, myself, but I respect the sour cream aficionados.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:44 am (UTC)(link)
I also like my herring in sour cream, even though my dad is all about the wine sauce.

[identity profile] txanne.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:40 am (UTC)(link)
So, uh, do you mind if I appropriate your culture sometime? Because those sound SO GOOD.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:46 am (UTC)(link)
If I didn't hope people would make latkes THE RIGHT WAY, I wouldn't have posted the process! Of course you can appropriate it. Let all who are hungry come and eat... wait, wrong holiday, but the sentiment stands.

[identity profile] txanne.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:51 am (UTC)(link)
Food is love. So are you.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:52 am (UTC)(link)
&hearts
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[personal profile] ckd 2010-12-06 06:39 am (UTC)(link)
However, [livejournal.com profile] rikibeth is not food.

[identity profile] deguspice.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 07:24 am (UTC)(link)
I make latkes the wrong way. I start with a bag of frozen shredded potatoes (hash brown mix). It may not be as good as grating your own potatoes, but you get to skip several labor intensive steps (which means, I'm more likely to make them :)

However, next time I'll try following your lead and skip the flour and baking powder.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 01:19 pm (UTC)(link)
I've used frozen hash brown shreds some years when I've been working retail and pressed for time and energy. They're okay, especially Cascadian Farms. They are certainly better than boxed mix.

[identity profile] tamidon.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:48 am (UTC)(link)
Michael Ruhlman recommends using men's cotton hankies for things like this
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:49 am (UTC)(link)
too small for five pounds of grated potatoes at once, I like the gauze diapers, nice and stretchy.

[identity profile] hammercock.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 05:24 am (UTC)(link)
*bookmarking for future reference*

[identity profile] sapphorlando.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 05:59 am (UTC)(link)
For about the eleventyumpteenth time, I'm wishing I'd grabbed a tuna press on my way out of Subway. (Subway doesn't even use them anymore, haven't in years, meaning there are about twenty thousand of them just hanging around somewhere. They're made by a company called Nemco and worth a couple hundred bucks new.) It's a manual screw device you hang on the side of sink. Invert a #5 can of whatever you want to get the juice out of, with the (cut off) lid still in place, and slowly screw away. I realised early on that you could put anything in the empty can and press the fluid out. Having had to squeeze out tuna by hand since then, I've really been wanting one. I think it might be perfect for this.

I was raised Episcopalian and followed a similar route to yours, still hanging on to many old cultural traditions without attaching mystical deific significance to them. I made my family's Christmas pudding last Sunday, right on schedule (the old Anglican Stir-up Sunday), and it is curing until the 25th, when we'll reheat it, tip it out, douse it in booze and light it on fire.

Here's to traditions involving food and fire!
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 01:22 pm (UTC)(link)
I'm not sure the tuna press would work on latkes -- the grated potato mixture is fine enough to leak out between the can and the lid. You'd still want the cloth, I think.

Still, the concept is worthy.

As is pudding that you LIGHT ON FIRE. I made a suet-based Christmas pudding once. It was DELICIOUS.

[identity profile] auspeople.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 05:44 pm (UTC)(link)
*desperately needs good recipe for traditional Christmas pudding because is a totally lapsed Anglican please*

[identity profile] sapphorlando.livejournal.com 2010-12-08 06:21 pm (UTC)(link)
If you do an online search, you'll find many recipes. Any 'plum pudding' is essentially the same thing; 'Christmas' pudding is just a bit more fancy, maybe. (I've never actually compared them one to one.) For the traditionalist, the go-to is Mrs. Beeton's historical recipes. A very ordinary family recipe that's interesting for the sake of novelty is
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If you do an online search, you'll find many recipes. Any 'plum pudding' is essentially the same thing; 'Christmas' pudding is just a bit more fancy, maybe. (I've never actually compared them one to one.) For the traditionalist, the go-to is Mrs. Beeton's historical recipes. A very ordinary family recipe that's interesting for the sake of novelty is <a href="http://pudding.denyer.net/george-orwells-pudding-recipe.html"George Orwell's</a>.

My own recipe, which I'm still developing, is a story of my family, with ingredients reflecting various influences from our history. Besides traditional English ingredients (and at least one secret ingredient reflecting our much older Bavarian history, as well as the pre-British Continental history of pudding), there are pecans (my mother was from the South and I was born in New Orleans), and several New England ingredients not found in most traditional English recipes (such as blueberry). Ingredients are sourced locally as much as possible. One must come from my father's garden. (Except this year, due to crop failure.)

Everyone must stir the pudding -- once clockwise, while making a wish for the coming year. Then it is cooked and cured. Pudding is very dense and can't withstand baking, so it is instead traditionally steamed for several hours. The modern innovation of slow cookers is an improvement, but most recipes still call for steaming.

Follow specific instructions in whatever recipe you use, but generally it is cured in a cool dark place for at least several weeks. During this time it darkens, almost to black. The traditional cycle is to steam it on Stir-up Sunday. (In the Anglican calendar, the Sunday after Thanksgiving. The Episcopalian calendar moved this, but for the pudding's sake, stick to the original.)

Some families follow a one-year instead of one-month cycle, which I've been told makes for a superior pudding. (Only the English would recommend storing cooked food for a year to make it better.) I expect to experiment with this this year, for the first time. I don't know for a fact, but I've read that pudding is good for up to two years.

It's traditionally served rewarmed and 'tipped out' on a heavy plate of suitable size. If served for Christmas, it was often served with a holly sprig in the middle. It may be set afire, if you like, but I think this might historically be more of a New Year's tradition. (Many families serve it for New Year's instead, which actually makes sense, as it's a full month after Stir-up Sunday while Christmas is not.) To do this, pour brandy about the base and light. In a heavy dish, it will go out on its own shortly.

The preferred dressing is 'hard sauce'. You can buy this in stores, or make it very easily from any of many very similar recipes. I usually make a basic 'brandy butter' sauce in sufficient quantity to last for several months, for other things. (As near as I can tell, it's shelf-stable forever, but I won't be responsible.)

[identity profile] wikdsushi.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 08:44 am (UTC)(link)
I need to make latkes.

[identity profile] donnad.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 12:38 pm (UTC)(link)
Sounds yummy, I may need to make some latkes this week. Hearing everyone talk about their latke feasts is making me want some.

My family is not Jewish (Roman Catholic) but my Grandmother used to make what she called potato pancakes, which I now know as Latkes.

My recipe for them, that was never written down by my grandmother, but rather by me so it would be preserved, does not list quantities, but it is similar, except we used baking powder and a tiny bit of flour. Grate some potato and some onion, drain it, add a little milk, some baking powder and just enough flour to make it the consistancy of pancake batter. Fry them in about an inch of oil in the fry pan. Served with sour cream AND applesauce.
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 01:23 pm (UTC)(link)
Milk? Okay, those are definitely Heretical Goyische Latkes! *g*

[identity profile] donnad.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 01:34 pm (UTC)(link)
Yep, what can I say.
They were pancakes afterall. :)
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[personal profile] ceo 2010-12-06 03:28 pm (UTC)(link)
We had a little latke party the other night with some friends. I'm not even remotely Jewish, and one of our guests isn't either, so guess who was making the latkes. :-)

[identity profile] pentane.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:16 pm (UTC)(link)
When reading this (especially the end) I was reminded of Warren Ellis' description of his 4AM mixes.

'The 4AM mix is reduced to 128 of your kilobits and does not love children.'
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:28 pm (UTC)(link)
I am not familiar with this reference. I kindasorta know who Warren Ellis is. Elaborate or link?

[identity profile] pentane.livejournal.com 2010-12-06 04:31 pm (UTC)(link)
"The 4am is a mixtape file containing nothing but music donated directly by new and/or unsigned acts. The 4am is of no set length and is released on no set schedule. The 4am is mixed down to 128 of the kbps. The 4am is offended by the concept of sleep. The 4am is time’s combine harvester."

http://www.warrenellis.com/?p=5279

If you google 'warren ellis 4am' you get all the intros. That's pretty representative.

[identity profile] browngirl.livejournal.com 2010-12-07 03:48 pm (UTC)(link)
This is a glorious Latke recipe.

*makes a note*
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[identity profile] rikibeth.livejournal.com 2010-12-07 03:53 pm (UTC)(link)
The Platonic essence of latke, as it were. *smiles* Thank my dad.